For the past seven years each spring and autumn for GoByBikeBC Weeks, I’ve led groups of cyclists and ebikers on joyful rides around the Southern Gulf Islands. I hope this article inspires you to give it a try—whether you’re seeking a fresh adventure or a healthy, practical way to get around.
“You burn more calories on an ebike,” says David Elderton, Owner of Hilleater Bikes, “Because you actually ride it!” I couldn’t agree more.
Bike-camping is what led us to move here. It wasn’t just the wineries and beaches that captivated us, but the invigorating conversations with locals and the honesty of trust-based farmstands made this place feel like home–a place where our children could grow up in a strong community, chasing chickens and eating weird-shaped vegetables. Before we moved here, and with a babyseat and sometimes a trailer, too, I’d cycled us all over Portland, Oregon and Lyon, France. Once on-Island, even though our home is central, I made excuses to not ride my ten-speed to the store or to playdates, due to the steep hills and narrow, gravelly shoulders. The ebike set me free.
On these winding, hilly roads, ebikes offer a surprising safety advantage over traditional bicycles. The electric assist helps you keep a steady pace uphill, reducing drivers’ need to pass. Smooth starts at intersections and on slopes mean less wobbling, and disc or hydraulic brakes help you descend with control. Still, there’s work to be done for everyone to feel safe cycling here.
Our communities need better bike lanes and pathways, lower speed limits, and more driver awareness. On these Islands, if you want something done, you have to sign-up and help make it happen. So I joined Island Pathways—a charitable society that’s been championing active transportation on Salt Spring since 1988. Together, we’ve distributed reflective gear and helmets, hosted community events, sponsored bike skills courses, and even purchased a tiny bike lane sweeper. Change is slow, but it is happening.
“I’ve been using an ebike on Mayne Island since 2013 and have travelled many tens of thousands of kilometres without any fossil fuel use and well under a $100 worth of electricity to recharge my battery for that whole distance,” says Jim Travensy of Mayne Island. “Ebiking can replace huges numbers of vehicle trips, which make roads safer for everyone.”
Author of the blog and book series, Let’s Go Biking, Colleen MacDonald writes: “The Islands are hilly, but ebikes are changing the scene and allowing people to explore further and farther.” Plus, they’re helping us shift toward healthy, low-carbon travel and regenerative tourism.
When your main fuel is food—plus about five cents worth of electricity per charge—your footprint shrinks dramatically. Studies show that ebike tourists outspend car travelers by 40% or more on average, not just on meals but by staying longer and seeking out local experiences. Slower travel makes it easier to stop at farmstands, art studios, and beaches.
Multi-use trails like the Lochside (to Victoria), the Great Blue Heron Way (to Vancouver), and bike lanes to the Trans Canada Trail (to Nanaimo) connect the Islands to urban centres from each ferry terminus. Bonus: you’ll never have to wait for the next ferry with a bike, there’s no extra charge to bring it aboard, and seniors ride free to and from the Islands Monday-Thursday, including your bicycle. On Salt Spring’s buses, place your bike on the rack, remove the battery and carry it onboard with you.
Elly Blue’s Bikenomics explores these ripple effects for both travellers and residents—less road maintenance, improved public health, stronger local economies—when more people ride. Medical journals state that regular cycling adds, on average, two fit years to your lifespan.
Whether you’re a local or visitor, together we can create a positive feedback loop for safer cycling. As more people choose to cycle, driver awareness increases and public demand and prioritized investments in cycling infrastructure grow.
Encouragingly, over the next 20 years, CRD Regional Parks plan to construct multi-use pathways linking ferry terminals to village centres on every Southern Gulf Island. Mayne Island’s new 2m-wide crushed gravel trail to Miners Bay path was recently completed for ~$3.5 million. On Pender, the Schooner Way Trail is underway at millions per kilometre, including donated materials. Early estimates top $80 million for Salt Spring’s 20km link from Fulford to Vesuvius, via Ganges. This dream will need a lot of political will to come true.
Islanders are already making small, meaningful changes. Galiano has bike pull-outs along Porlier Pass Road, plus tools and charging stations at the South Ag Hall, the Library, and the Conservancy’s Millard Learning Centre. Pender’s Driftwood Centre has outdoor outlets near Vanilla Leaf Café and every first Tuesday, you can get your (e)bicycle repaired at the Recycling Depot. On Mayne, you can recharge at the Ag Hall, Library or the Farm Gate Store. Salt Spring offers charging at the library and Ruckle Park, to name a few.
As Robert Pirsig wrote in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: "On a cycle the frame is gone. You're completely in contact with it all. You're in the scene, not just watching it anymore, and the sense of presence is overwhelming." On an ebike, you can hear the birds sing.
With warm weather upon us, it’s time to dust off your bike and pump up those tires. If hills are holding you back—rent an ebike! More of us than ever are pedaling clean transport.
Maybe the best reason to ride apart from health and the environment is to have fun, meet one another and build community. Exploring these Islands on bicycle as an “archipelager” has introduced me to so many fine folks. Below are some of our favourite routes and highlights from each island. May they inspire your next great ride and forge some new Island connections.
A Perfect Day: Island-by-Island Callouts
After cycling the Southern Gulf Islands many times, I’ve distilled our most memorable moments into single-day trips, with options for overnights and day-two adventures. This summer, Aqualink will run passenger ferries with bike transport on weekends, and Tour des Iles offers inter-island travel over National Indigenous Peoples’ Day and Summer Solstice weekend—an ideal time to explore on two wheels.
ṮEḴTEḴSEN / SATURNA
Start with coffee on the ferry, then bike straight up Mount Warburton Pike. The ride winds through warm breaths of sweet bark-scented forest breeze along a dirt road and out to a shockingly stunning overlook above the raptors. Hike the bluff trails through old-growth Douglas fir before heading back down to the General Store Café. On Saturdays, you’ll find an outdoor market and Free Store alongside—perfect for picnic supplies or a deckside breakfast burrito and coffee.
Continue on to East Point. Pause at the interpretive overlook by the weather station to hear Indigenous voices praying for Orcas and the land, then walk to the point for a picnic. Watch sea lions and whales, and tune into the SIMRES live underwater hydrophones (scan the QR on the Foghorn Building). On your way back, cool off with a dip at Russell Reef, or detour to Winter Cove Trail to watch Boat Pass tides and learn about native plants. Wrap up near the ferry dock with ice cream at Dee’s or games and poutine on the Lighthouse Pub deck, timed perfectly for a sunset cruise home.
Overnight? Camp at Narvaez Bay, glamp near the ferry at Arbutus Campground, or treat yourself at Saturna Lodge or a local B&B.
Day Two: Bike to Taylor Bay Trail near Sage Hayward Winery, grab lunch at the Feral Goat Bistro, then kick back at Thompson Park beach before biking back over the hill and home.
Contacts:
Saturna EcoBike Adventures: saturnaecoadventures.com — Four solar-charged e-bikes, open May 1. Run by Robin and Anthony.
Mutiny Bike Repairs: Lee Bly, 250-986-9689. mutinycycles@proton.me. Based at Arbutus Campground.
Swiikw / GALIANO
Step off the ferry and head straight for pastries and warm drink at one of Sturdies Bay’s excellent bakeries. If it’s Saturday, stop at the thriving Farmers Market and Thrift Store at Lions Park, then bike out and up to the Bluffs parking area. From there, hike the ridge to your perfect picnic perch.
Return along Georgeson Road. If it’s a Sunday, pop into the Galiano Museum to learn about Indigenous & settler history. In the mood for Thai? Barbeque? Picnic? You have options near the Daystar Market. Then, cruise onwards to Montague Provincial Park. Learn from Interpretive signs, hike to the point, and lounge on the sandy beach. On your way back, enjoy a drink at the Crane and Robin at the Harbour Marina.
If you’re feeling fancy, book ahead for a meal at Pilgrimme. Back at the ferry terminal, grab a bottle of Indonesian sauce from the Max & Moritz food cart. Early? Lounge on beach’s flat rocks, browse the Yellow House art exhibits, or get lost in Galiano’s provocative bookstore.
Overnight? Camp at Montague, unwind at the Galiano Inn, or find a quirky Airbnb.
Day Two: Bike out Porlier Pass Road to The Pink Geranium, stopping to recharge in the Indigenous Medicine Garden at the Galiano Conservancy’s Millard Learning Centre. On the return, explore a beach access point or duck into Retreat Cove to see the shimmering cave walls. Wrap up with pizza and a view at the Galiano Inn near the Ferry home.
Contacts:
Galiano Adventures: http://www.galianoadventures.com/. Frank Moyle rents 4 ebikes, and offers shuttle service to the ferry.
The Pink Geranium: https://www.pinkgeranium.com/, contact Jesse Keefer or staff at 250-539-2677, up to 8 ebike rentals.
Bike Repair: Nathan Hodgins, text 604-409-0048.
SDȺY¸ES / PENDER
Pedal past donkeys and farmstands to the Pender Islands Museum at Roe Bay. If the tide’s right, you can walk the little islet there. Continue along the dirt road to the Roe Lake trailhead, and walk your bike through forest to the lake—just the right temperature for a dip, though you may startle a loon!
After a steep descent through arbutus groves, you’ll find yourself in the Magic Lake neighborhood—home of the legendary Cheesecake Fridge at 4882 Pirates Rd. Amazingly, “The Fridge of Wonders” (stocked with vegetables) is DIFFERENT from “The Cheesecake Fridge,” two houses down. Savour the ultimate creamy decadence before riding along the future Schooners Bay Trail for a slow-mo drive-by of Slow Roast Coffee. Pick up picnic supplies for later at Truss Farm Foods before a bumpy descent to Medicine Beach, an ancient village site. The way the sunlight reflects off the water and up into the trees, shimmering the coniferous forest, is deeply medicinal.
Cruise on, over hills and dales until gravity brings you screaming into the Driftwood Centre for delicasies at the Vanilla Leaf Cafe (and a little charge-up for the bikes) and Talisman Books. Continue north to Hope Bay to visit the Pender Islands Conservancy‘s brilliant storefront teaching about wildlife and habitat. Consider buying loving gifts at Pender Island Chocolates.
Then ride across the island via Port Washington Road, passing sheep, geese, and the dazzling Renaissance Studio Gallery, where Milada’s art and sparkly bling await. Cruise back to the ferry past friendly golfers, with time to soak up sun and watch the cormorants dry their wings.
Staying over? Camp at Shingle Bay or Prior Centennial. Glamp at The Woods or Port Browning Marina. Or splurge at Poets Cove or a unique B&B.
Day Two: Bring a pannier of snacks and ride the South Island to the road’s end. Hike the rugged coastline to a driftwood fort picnic. On the way back, stop at one of Poets Cove’s cafes and read about Indigenous history there. Pack your swimsuit—there’s a heated pool waiting. On the way back, skip stones at Mortimer’s Spit before the bridge.
If you’re there on a Saturday, don’t miss the lively Pender Farmers Market!
Contacts:
Otter Bay Marina: otterbay-marina.ca — Craig rents up to 8 e-bikes.
S,ḴŦAK / MAYNE ISLAND
This Island shaped like a rabbit riding a crocodile is great for loop rides. Start with the Japanese Gardens at Dinner Bay first thing to set the tone for the generosity of spirit and natural beauty here. Ring the deeply sonorous bell, which throbs gently with a healing hum as you lay your ear to it.
Turn around and follow the new trail from the ferry to Miners Bay, passing the Indigenous Welcome Figure honoring Felix and Emma Jack: “Accept and respect that nothing in life is static. All are embraced.” Fuel up at Sunny Mayne Bakery, home of the mighty CRONUT. Fuelds, follow the coast uphill toward Georgina Point Lighthouse—a marvellous outpost, exposing you to vast expanses of teeming waters.
Loop back along Campbell Bay Road, stopping at the Farm Gate Store for picnic supplies—don’t miss the Deacon Vale salsa. Recharge and browse Envision Gallery & Mayne Island Books.
Eventually, you may decide to bike onwards towards Bennett Bay–stopping to admire the innovative Ollas at the Clay Works next to the Hardware Store. Park and walk out to Campbell Point and dine in Nature’s paradise.
Follow Arbutus Drive to the private lane connecting to Steward Road, then on to Horton Bay and Henderson Park. It’s a beautiful hike to the overlook. Then walk your bicycle to Punch’s Alley, and bicycle out to the Glen Echo cut-through, where a wooded multi-use trail brings you back to Wood Dale Road and to the Ferry.
More time for Mayne? Sleep at a cob Airbnb or one of the resorts. On your second day, be sure to visit Joyce Kallweit’s Meadowmist Farm for sheep wool products and practical life advice, gather art supplies at the Dragonfly Gallery, and find yourself atop Mt. Parke Park to sketch the sky. If it’s a Saturday, be sure to visit the brand new Ethnobotany Garden and Indigenous Art displays located just behind their fantastic thrift stores, right across the street from the musical and vivacious Farmers Market. While away the afternoon at Mayne Island Brewing, and your day is complete.
[Personal Note] Mayne Islander, Brian Dearden ebikes every day. After an invigorating conversation, he offered us a ride back to Ganges in his water taxi to extend our adventure. His boat can carry at least four ebikes and riders (contact him for ebike tour ideas at 250-539-0715).
[Personal Note] One night sleeping out under the stars at Seal Bay during the Campbell Bay music festival, I woke to gleeful yoops and a string of white fairy bike lights descending Georgina Point Road across the bay and out onto the public dock, followed by splashes and laughter that receded into the night. At sunrise, three orcas poofed by, traveling out Active Pass.
Contacts:
Mayne Island Home Hardware: 250-539-2929. They rent up to six ebikes from their store.
ĆU¸ÁÁN / SALT SPRING & REGION
While this article focuses on the quieter Southern Gulf Islands, Salt Spring is often part of the journey—and well worth a spin.
If arriving via Long Harbour or Vesuvius, try the North End Loop: up Sunset Drive and back via Walkers Hook and Robinson to Upper Ganges Road to return to the four-way stop at Central. Snack stops include gooey cinnamon buns at North End Farmstand, seafood and sushi at Off The Hook, coffee-on-the-go from Hen & Hound, and artisanal treats from Francis Bread and Forest Moon Chocolates. Stop by Salt Spring Glassworks for handmade treasures like banana slugs and sea stars.
From Fulford Harbour, take an immediate right (after grabbing picnic supplies at the Mercantile) out Morningside Road, then left on Sunnyside. Walk your bike up the scenic boardwalk trail to South Ridge Drive and grab a Salt Spring Fruitsicle. Continue toward Ruckle Park, then return to Ganges via the quieter Stewart and Beddis Roads.
Salt Spring makes a great launch point—or landing pad—for deeper island adventures.
Contacts:
Outspokin Bikes: https://www.outspokinbikeshop.com/. They rent up to 25 ebikes (!!!) in Ganges Village.
[Personal note] Cycling has led us to many community by-donation soup lunches—Pender’s is on Fridays at the Community Hall, often with live music. Galiano’s is Mondays, Saturna hosts one on Tuesdays in winter, Mayne Island’s MIALS Lunch Bunch is every other Wednesday (by reservation), and Salt Spring’s senior lunch is open to all on Thursdays. These warm meals are a great way to meet locals and feel right at home.
Safety Gear (side-bar):
Riding the Gulf Islands is super fun. It’s also kind of dangerous if you’re not prepared. The roads are narrow and winding, often with no shoulders at all.
Brightly-coloured, reflective clothing (consider fairy wings or feather boas!) and a helmet.
Light up with multiple white front headlamps and flashing red on backpack and rear rack. Bring extra batteries or charging cord. Ebiking the Islands sometimes means early or late ferries in the dark.
My personal favourite is a rear-view mirror installed on the left handlebar.
Some panniers for whatever you may pick up along the way & a small backpack for the impromtu hike.
Snacks (i.e., chocolate, granola bars, fruit) and water.
Raingear — Rainpants and jacket seasonally. Wellies are appropriate year-round — these count as formal wear here.
A small towel or thicker scarf for that spontaneous ocean or lake dip, and to wrap that amazing mug or glass art you might find.
A phone charger, your phone.
Map and a sharpie for planning your route and stops along the way.
Your ebike charging cord, and a power strip for your friends.
Oh, and money.
Find more safety tips here: https://southerngulfislands.com/cycling-in-the-southern-gulf-islands/
Join ISLAND PATHWAYS to advocate for safer walking & cycling infrastructure!
A shortened version of this article was published in the May/June edition of Aqua magazine:
What a fantastic resource! Thank you:)